Crochet square flower coaster/placemat

I just loved working on these beautiful and colorful square placemats!  Very easy and fast weekend project.  I've used 10tkt cotton yarn, but you can choose to use any kind of yarn and matching hook.  These squares can be joined to form table cloths, runners, shawls or any other projects!

This project starts off as a circle and transforms into a square as it grows.  At some point it may seem to be wavy or curling, but eventually it will work itself out.  To get the perfect square, I would suggest blocking.  I'll briefly explain about how I block my project as well.

Difficulty level 
Beginner/Intermediate

Materials
Anchor knitting cotton (10 tkt)
Hook: 2mm

Stitches
ST - Slip Stitch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFk-fdAowbY)

SC - Single Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOlQXn8JWWM)

DC - Double Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY)

DC2TOG - Double Crochet two together (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7c_GJND3w4)

Pattern

1) Start with 4 chain.  Join to form a circle.

2) ST into the circle.  Start with 3 chain which is considered as first DC.  Put 15 dc into the circle.

3) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC. 1 DC into the same stitch. Chain 2. skip 1 stitch, 4 DC into the next stitch. Chain 2.  ( Skip 1 stitch.  2 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. skip 1 stitch, 4 DC into the next stitch. Chain 2. ) - Continue around and join to the first DC.

4) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC. Chain 1. 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  Put 2 DCs into the next stitch of previous round. 1 DC into the next stitch. 1 DC into the next stitch. 2 DCs into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  (1 DC into the next stitch, chain 1, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  Put 2 DCs into the next DC of previous round. 1 DC into the next stitch. 1 DC into the next stitch. 2 DCs into the next stitch.  Chain 2) - Continue around and join to the first DC.

5) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC.  Chain 1. 1 DC into the chain space.  Chain 1. 1DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. 1 DC into each of the next 6 stitches. Chain 2.  (1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 1. 1 DC into the chain space.  Chain 1. 1DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  1 DC into each of the next 6 stitches. Chain 2.) Continue around and join to the first DC.

6) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC.  Chain 1.  1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 3 and 1 DC in the same stitch.  Chain 1. 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. DC into each of the next 6 stitches.  Chain 2.  (1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 1, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 3 and 1 DC in the same stitch.  Chain 1. 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  DC into each of the next 6 stitches.  Chain 2. ) Continue around and join to the first DC.

7) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC.  Chain 1, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 3.  SC into the 3 chain space.  Chain 3, 1 DC into next stitch.  Chain 1, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.   DC into each of the next 6 stitches. Chain 2.  (1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 1, 1 DC into the next stitch. Chain 3.  SC into the 3 chain space.  Chain 3. 1 DC into next stitch.  Chain 1. 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  DC into each of the next 6 stitches. Chain 2.) Continue around and join to the first DC.

8) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC. Chain 2.  1 DC into next stitch. Chain 2. Put 4 DC + chain 3 + 4 DC into the next SC.  Chain 2. 1 DC into next stitch.  Chain 2. 1 DC into next stitch. Chain 2.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs, DC into next 2 DC s.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs.  Chain 2. (DC into next stitch. Chain 2.  1 DC into next stitch. Chain 2. Put 4 DC + chain 3 + 4 DC into the next SC.  Chain 2. 1 DC into next stitch.  Chain 2. 1 DC into next stitch. Chain 2.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs, DC into next 2 DC s.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs.  Chain 2) - Continue around and join to the first DC.

9) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC. Chain 3, 1 DC, Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 4 DCs of previous round. Put 1Dc +  Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 chain+ 1dc  on each of the next 4 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2.  1 DC, Chain 3, 1 DC.  Chain 2.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs. Dc2tog next 2 DCs.  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch. Chain 3.  (1 DC in the next stitch. Chain 3, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 4 DCs of previous round. Put 1Dc +  Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 chain+ 1dc  on each of the next 4 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch. Chain 3, 1 DC.  Chain 2.  Dc2tog next 2 DCs. Dc2tog next 2 DCs. Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch. Chain 3.) - Continue around and join to the first DC.

10) Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC.  Chain 4.  Put 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 5 DCs of the previous round. Put 1Dc + Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 chain+ 1dc  on each of the next 5 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 4, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Dc2tog next 2 DCs.  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch.  Chain 4. (1 DC into the next stitch. Chain 4, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 5 DCs of the previous round. Put 1Dc + Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 chain+ 1dc  on each of the next 5 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 4, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Dc2tog next 2 DCs.  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch.  Chain 4.)- Continue around and join to the first DC.

11)  Start with 3 chains which is considered as first DC.  Chain 6. Put 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 6 DCs of the previous round. Put 1Dc + Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 Chain+ 1DC  on each of the next 6 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 6, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  DC2tog next two DCs of previous round.  (Skip working in the DC2tog of previous round.)  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch.  Chain 4. (1 DC into the next stitch. Chain 6, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2. Put 1dc + 1 chain on each of the next 5 DCs of the previous round. Put 1Dc + Chain 3 + 1 DC into the next chain space.  Put 1 chain+ 1dc  on each of the next 5 DCs of previous round.  Chain 2, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 6, 1 DC into the next stitch.  Chain 2.  DC2tog next two DCs of previous round.  Chain 2.  1 DC in the next stitch.  Chain 4.)- Continue around and join to the first DC.

12) Start with 3 chain which is considered as first DC.  Put 4 DCs in the next 6 chain space.  Put 3 DCs into the next 2 chain space.  Put 1 DC in each of the next 6, 1 chain spaces.  Put 2 DC + 2 chain + 2 DC in the next chain space.  Put 1 DC in each of the next 6, 1 chain spaces.  Put 3 DCs into the next 2 chain space.  Put 4 DCs in the next 6 chain space.  Put 1 DC into the next DC2tog.  Continue around putting DCs in the chain spaces and the DC2togs of previous round.  At the end, join to the first DC.

13) Start with chain 1 and put 1 SC in each stitch of previous row. (Put 3 SCs into the corner 3 chain spaces.  At the end, join to the first SC.

Blocking

I use wet blocking for my work.  Blocking is not mandatory, but it does make a huge difference to how a project looks.  Especially for cotton thread projects.  Take a look at my unblocked and blocked work below.

I usually just wet my project in luke warm water, stretch it out and pin it down on a foam board.  You can buy blocking boards or use any kind of foam.  These are two foam playmats I used from my son's collection! :)  I use a spray starch and spray my project.  Then I leave it to dry.  If you want the project to be stiffer, you can spray it again.

NOTE: In case you are having trouble with the pattern, please let me know and I will work with you to resolve it as best as possible.

I would love to hear and see if you create this beautiful project.  Please feel free to write to me or post to my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/myartvent/

DISCLAIMER:  Please do not copy any part of this pattern.  Please give credit to this blog if you use any of the patterns.

Feel free to follow me on Facebook | Instagram | Ravelry

Evening elegance purse

I had not crocheted a purse in a while, and decided to crochet one recently.  It was a very fast project!
Anchor knitting cotton is a beautiful cotton 10 Tkt crochet thread, and I love using it in most of my thread projects.  You can use any 10 Tkt thread for this project, or even use purse thread.  
I will talk briefly about lining the purse, but it is not a mandatory step.  Though a good lining does enhance the life and beauty of a purse.  

The purse pocket and the top flap are created separately, and then joined together.  You can choose to use a button or bead to close the flap.  Alternately you can choose to use a purse magnet as well.

Note - I've added step by step photos for the flap part of it.



Difficulty level 
Beginner/Intermediate


Materials
Yarn: Anchor knitting cotton
Hook: 2.00mm
1 button/bead
Needle for joining
Lining material(optional)


Stitches
ST - Slip Stitch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFk-fdAowbY)

SC - Single Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOlQXn8JWWM)

DC - Double Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY)

Cluster Stitch - 3 DC clusters (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLWt5Y29l7E)


Pattern

Purse

I chose to go with a cream color for this part.  This part is done in rounds and joined together at the end.

1) Start with a chain of 100 and join to form a circle.  Make sure to not twist the chain while joining.

2) Start with 3 chain and put DCs in all the stitches of previous row.  Join to the first 3chain.

3) Continue step 2 in rounds upto the desired height of the purse.  I have done 15 rounds.

4) When you have reached desired height, sew the purse to close one side to form the purse pocket.

Lining the purse

I used a golden colored cloth.  I usually cut the material just a bit bigger than the purse.  Then sew up the sides.  Then I fit it into the insides of the purse and turn back the top part of the cloth and sew around the top to attach it to the purse.  While a lining in a purse is not mandatory, it enhances the usability, durability and the beauty of the purse.  I don't own a sewing machine, so hand sew everything.

Flap

I have chosen a maroon color for this part.  This part is made as a semi circle, and then joined with the purse body.

1) Start with 4 chain.  Join to create a circle.

2) ST into the circle.  Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC. 2 Chain. (3 DC cluster into the circle, Chain 2) - Repeat 3 times. DC into the circle

3) Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC. Chain 1. DC into the chain space of previous row.  Chain 1.  In the next chain space (DC, 1 chain) - 4 times. Again in the next chain space (DC, 1 chain) - 4 times. DC into next chain space, 1chain, DC in the same space.

4)  Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC. Chain 1. 3 DC cluster into next chain space. (Chain 2 + 3 DC cluster) into each chain space of previous round.  Chain 1. 1dc in the last chain space.

5) Chain 5 and join to top of 3dc cluster of previous round.  Continue to chain 5 and join to top of each cluster of last round.  Chain 5 and join on the first DC of the previous round.

6) ST 3 to the center of the last loop of previous row.  Chain 6 and join to the top center of the next 5 chain space of previous round.  Continue to chain 6 and join into each chain space of previous round.

7) Start with 3 chain.  5 DC into the 6 chain space of previous round.  Continue to put 5 DC into each chain space of previous round.

8) Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC.  (Chain 1.   Find the 3rd DC (middle) of the 5 DC group of previous row.  3 DC cluster into that stitch.  Chain 1 and again 3 DC cluster into the same stitch.  Chain 1.  2DC into space between the two 5DC groups) - Repeat 10 times.  1 chain.   Find the 3rd DC (middle) of the 5 DC group of previous row.  3 DC cluster into that stitch.  Chain 1 and again 3 DC cluster into the same stitch.  Chain 1.  1DC into the first DC of last round.

9) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  (Chain 1 then 3dc cluster into the chain space between 2 3dc clusters of previous round.  Chain 1, 1DC into  next DC, Chain 1, 1DC into next DC) - Repeat 10 times.  Chain 1 then 3dc cluster into the chain space between 2 3dc clusters of previous round. Chain 1 and 1DC into the first DC of the last round.

10) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  (Put 2 DCs into each of the chain 1 spaces) -Repeat 5 till the end.  End with 1dc into the first DC of previous round.

11) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc. Put 1dc into next 12 DCs of previous round.  Put 2DCs in the next stitch.  Again put 1dc into next 12 DCs of previous round.  Put 2DCs in the next stitch.  Continue to the end.  End with 1dc into the first DC of previous round.

12) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc. Put 1dc into each DC of previous round.  End with 1dc into the first DC of previous round. (No increases)

13) Now we will work across middle of the half circle.  Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  Turn the work, so you can work along the diameter.  Into each of the chain spaces, put 2 DCs.  End with a DC on the top of the first DC of the previous round.

14) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  Turn the work and put 1 DC into each of the DCs of previous round.

15) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  Turn the work and put 1 DC into each of the DCs of previous round.

16) Start with 1 chain and put 1 SC into each of the stitches.  At the center top of the circle make a 8 chain loop for the button.  Go around the entire semi circle doing SCs.

17) Your flap is done.  Now you can attach to the top side of the bag.  Attach the button/bead to the purse.

Bag strap

I have used a lobster clasp for the strap, but it is not mandatory.  You can as well just create the strap and attach to the bag body.

1) Start with 3 chain.

2) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  Turn the work and put 2 DCs into the next two chains.

3) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1dc.  Turn the work and put 2 DCs into the next two stitches.

4) Continue increasing the length of the strap by repeating step 3.

5) Join the two sides of the strap and attach to the bag.

Alternately you can use a ready made bag handle or a bead handle!


NOTE: In case you are having trouble with the pattern, please let me know and I will work with you to resolve it as best as possible.

I would love to hear and see if you create this beautiful project.  Please feel free to write to me or post to my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/myartvent/

DISCLAIMER:  Please do not copy any part of this pattern.  Please give credit to this blog if you use any of the patterns.

Feel free to follow me on Facebook | Instagram | Ravelry

Spring Summer Top

This is the perfect spring summer top.  The top part is made like a bustier and the bottom has a lacy feel.  You can make it longer to look like a dress instead of a top.  Also I have not made sleeves, but they can be easily added.  The size of this top is between large and XL (around 38 inches chest) , but I have added tips on how to increase or decrease the size.


Difficulty level 
Beginner/Intermediate


Materials
Yarn:Big twist rainbow classic in gray for the bodice
Mandala in unicorn for the bottom lacy part

Hook: 5mm

3 large buttons


Stitches
ST - Slip Stitch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFk-fdAowbY)

SC - Single Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOlQXn8JWWM)

HDC - Half double crochet
(https://youtu.be/tyfpNYsIiIY)

DC - Double Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY)

SC2TOG - SC two together or SC Decrease (https://youtu.be/6jUQXXJUrhA)

SC3TOG - SC three together or SC Decrease similar to SC2TOG

HDC2TOG - HDC two together or HDC Decrease (https://youtu.be/Sf7b9Nqbz4U)



Pattern

Bust  

This is all done in the same yarn, Big twist rainbow classic in gray, with 5mm hook.  I have used a smaller hook size than recommended for that yarn, to get tighter stitches.

BODICE

First we will start on the bodice.  This part is worked in vertical rows instead of in the rounds.  I have made it front open, but you can choose to have it closed in the front instead.  Whenever I create tops, I measure it directly on person to get a good fit.  If I'm going for a snug fit, I usually measure tight, as yarn tends to expand a bit and may become a loose fit if not measured tightly.  I would suggest to measure the chest size for the person and go down 1 inch to get a tight fit for the bust.  (Go down 2 inches if you plan to add the front panel for the buttons)

1) Start with 25 chain (Mark the first chain to use when starting on the bottom part of the top)
2) Start with 2 chains which counts as first HDC and HDC into remaining stitches of starting chain.
3) Do two more rows of 25 HDCs.
4) This row we will increase to 26 stitches.  This is done by stitching two HDCs in the last but one stitch.  We always want to increase on the top side of the bodice not on the bottom side.  The bottom should be straight.
5) Do one row of 26 HDCs
6) Increase row to 27 HDCs.  Increase one stitch in the last but one stitch of the previous row.
7) Do one row of 27 HDCs
8) Increase row to 28 HDCs.  Increase one stitch in the last but one stitch of the previous row.
9) Do next 100 rows of 28 HDCs (Adjust the count according to your chest size and yardage)
10) Now we will again start decreasing.  We will decrease to 27 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row.  Again, make sure you decrease only at the top, and not the bottom of the bodice.
11) Do one row of 27 HDCs
12) Decrease to 26 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row.
13) Do one row of 26 HDCs
14) Decrease to 25 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row.
15) Do 2 more rows of 25 HDCs

I had made a total of 114 rows of HDCs end to end.

At this point if you do not want to keep the front open, you can choose to join the two sides together. If you want it front open follow this part below. Keep in mind this part will add around 2 inches to the width of the bodice, make sure to adjust accordingly when doing the main bodice part.

1) Start at the front top of one of the sides of the bodice and work down the front.  It should have 25 stitches.  Start with chain 1 and  SC into next 4 stitches.  SC3TOG in next 3stitches.  Again SC into next 4 stitches.  SC3TOG in next 3stitches.  SC into the next 4 stitches. SC3TOG in next 3stitches.  SC into the next 4 stitches.  This gives a slight pleated effect to the front.
2) Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC and DC into all stitches of previous row.  You should have 15 DCs.
3)  Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC and DC into all stitches of previous row.  You should have 15 DCs.
4) Repeat the same for the other side.  This should create the overlapping flaps or placket where the buttons will go.
5) Overlap these flaps and stitch them together at the bottom.
6) You can choose to add the buttons to the bottom flap at the end of the project.  Choose buttons which will fit into the DCs made on the flap.  So there is no need to create separate button holes.

SHOULDERS

For adding the shoulders straps, you can choose to do this in many different ways, going for a halter or spaghetti or adding thicker straps like mine.
1) Chain 7 or 8
2) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1 DC and stitch DCs in the stitches of previous row.
3) Do 20 more rows of DCs to form the strap.
4) Attach to the top of the bodice.



WAIST BAND

The next part is to create the waist band.  This part cinches the top near the waist.  We need to ensure this part ends up having stitches in multiples of 20, which is required for the lacy bottom of the top.  To ensure that we can get multiples of 20, count the number of rows of HDCs you have made for the bust.  We will be putting 1 SC per row of the bust + 4 more for the bottom of the front flap. Then increase it to the next multiple of 20.  I started with 118 and went up to 160 SCs.  I could have done 140 to get 7 sets of patterns, but it would have been too tight and not flowy enough.  Also I like to keep things even ;)

1) Attach the thread to the bottom of the bodice.  Start with chain 1 and 1 SC into the bottom of each HDC row.  For the front button panel of 2 DC rows, stitch 2 SC into each of the 2 DC rows.  You should have around 118 SCs.
2) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches.  You should have approx 130 SCs.
3) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches.  You should have approx 142 SCs.
4) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches.  You should have approx 160 SCs.
Remember to increase or decrease stitches to ensure the count is in multiples of 20.  You can choose not to increase or decrease if you already have multiple of 20, and the size fits your waist.

Lacy bottom

This part is done in rounds.  For the lace pattern, you need the stitches to be in multiples of 20.  I have made 8 pattern repeats, so I have started with 8x20, i.e. 160 stitches.
I have used a different yarn for this part.  It's Mandala yarn (in unicorn), which is a bit thinner than the one used for the bust part.  Using a thinner yarn gives this part a more flowy look and feel.

The first (marked) chain of the bodice should be the front center of your top.  You need to start 3 stitches before this point.  This is so that the first motif is centered correctly.  Attach the yarn to 3 stitches before the center stitch and start from there.

Round 1:
1) Start with chain1 and SC into the first stitch.  5 chain, skip 3 stitches and SC into the 4th stitch.  Continue around with 5 chain and skip 3, SC.  Join to the starting stitch.  You should have 40, 5 chain loops.  If you have started with a different multiple of 20 use that to count the number of starting loops.  For example if you start with 200 SCs (20 x 10) you should have 50 loops.

Round 2:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center.  Start with 1 chain and 1 SC at the top of the loop.  Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 7 DCs into the next loop and join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop. - 3 times to form 3, 5 chain loops.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

Round 3:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center.  Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop.  Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 1DC into the DC of previous round + chain 1.  Repeat for the next 6 DCs. Join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop. - 2 times to form 2, 5 chain loops.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

Round 4:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center.  Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop.  Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 1DC into the DC of previous round + chain 2.  Repeat for the next 6 DCs. Join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

Round 5:
1)  3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center.  Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop.  Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 5 DCs into each of the 6 chain 2 spaces of the previous round.  Join with SC at the top of the next loop.
3) Continue around and join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

Round 6:
1) Start with chain 1 and SC into the first stitch.  5 chain, skip next 5 DC cluster.  SC on top of the second 5 DC cluster.
2) 5 chain and SC on top of 3rd, 4th and 5th, 5 DC clusters
3) 5 chain SC into the next SC which was used to join the DC cluster row with the loop.
4) 5 chain, skip next 5 DC cluster.  SC on top of the second 5 DC cluster.
5) 5 chain and SC on top of 3rd, 4th and 5th, 5 DC clusters
6) 5 chain SC into the next SC which was used to join the DC cluster row with the loop.
7) Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 around and join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

Round7:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center.  Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop.  Mark this SC if required.
2) 5 chain and SC into each of the loops of the previous round.
3) Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.

At this point, one whole block of the pattern is done.  Going forward you need to repeat Rounds 2 to Round 7.  You can do as many repeats of the rounds as you want.  I have done a total of 4 repeats.

Bottom border: A bottom border helps to add a bit of weight and keep the edge from turning.  You can choose to either end with Round 5.  It has the 5DC clusters, which will help give the bottom a good definition and keep it from turning up.  I have just added a border by doing 5 DCs in each of the loops of the last round.  Then added a row of SCs.






NOTE: In case you are having trouble with the pattern, please let me know and I will work with you to resolve it as best as possible.

I would love to hear and see if you create this beautiful project.  Please feel free to write to me or post to my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/myartvent/

DISCLAIMER:  Please do not copy any part of this pattern.  Please give credit to this blog if you use any of the patterns.

Feel free to follow me on Facebook | Instagram | Ravelry