This is the perfect spring summer top. The top part is made like a bustier and the bottom has a lacy feel. You can make it longer to look like a dress instead of a top. Also I have not made sleeves, but they can be easily added. The size of this top is between large and XL (around 38 inches chest) , but I have added tips on how to increase or decrease the size.
Difficulty level
Beginner/Intermediate
Materials
Yarn:Big twist rainbow classic in gray for the bodice
Mandala in unicorn for the bottom lacy part
Hook: 5mm
3 large buttons
Stitches
ST - Slip Stitch (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFk-fdAowbY)
SC - Single Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOlQXn8JWWM)
HDC - Half double crochet
(https://youtu.be/tyfpNYsIiIY)
DC - Double Crochet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY)
SC2TOG - SC two together or SC Decrease (https://youtu.be/6jUQXXJUrhA)
SC3TOG - SC three together or SC Decrease similar to SC2TOG
HDC2TOG - HDC two together or HDC Decrease (https://youtu.be/Sf7b9Nqbz4U)
Pattern
Bust
BODICE
First we will start on the bodice. This part is worked in vertical rows instead of in the rounds. I have made it front open, but you can choose to have it closed in the front instead. Whenever I create tops, I measure it directly on person to get a good fit. If I'm going for a snug fit, I usually measure tight, as yarn tends to expand a bit and may become a loose fit if not measured tightly. I would suggest to measure the chest size for the person and go down 1 inch to get a tight fit for the bust. (Go down 2 inches if you plan to add the front panel for the buttons)
1) Start with 25 chain (Mark the first chain to use when starting on the bottom part of the top)
2) Start with 2 chains which counts as first HDC and HDC into remaining stitches of starting chain.
3) Do two more rows of 25 HDCs.
4) This row we will increase to 26 stitches. This is done by stitching two HDCs in the last but one stitch. We always want to increase on the top side of the bodice not on the bottom side. The bottom should be straight.
5) Do one row of 26 HDCs
6) Increase row to 27 HDCs. Increase one stitch in the last but one stitch of the previous row.
7) Do one row of 27 HDCs
8) Increase row to 28 HDCs. Increase one stitch in the last but one stitch of the previous row.
9) Do next 100 rows of 28 HDCs (Adjust the count according to your chest size and yardage)
10) Now we will again start decreasing. We will decrease to 27 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row. Again, make sure you decrease only at the top, and not the bottom of the bodice.
11) Do one row of 27 HDCs
12) Decrease to 26 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row.
13) Do one row of 26 HDCs
14) Decrease to 25 HDCs by doing a HDC2TOG in the second and third stitch of the previous row.
15) Do 2 more rows of 25 HDCs
I had made a total of 114 rows of HDCs end to end.
At this point if you do not want to keep the front open, you can choose to join the two sides together. If you want it front open follow this part below. Keep in mind this part will add around 2 inches to the width of the bodice, make sure to adjust accordingly when doing the main bodice part.
1) Start at the front top of one of the sides of the bodice and work down the front. It should have 25 stitches. Start with chain 1 and SC into next 4 stitches. SC3TOG in next 3stitches. Again SC into next 4 stitches. SC3TOG in next 3stitches. SC into the next 4 stitches. SC3TOG in next 3stitches. SC into the next 4 stitches. This gives a slight pleated effect to the front.
2) Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC and DC into all stitches of previous row. You should have 15 DCs.
3) Start with 3 chain which counts as first DC and DC into all stitches of previous row. You should have 15 DCs.
4) Repeat the same for the other side. This should create the overlapping flaps or placket where the buttons will go.
5) Overlap these flaps and stitch them together at the bottom.
6) You can choose to add the buttons to the bottom flap at the end of the project. Choose buttons which will fit into the DCs made on the flap. So there is no need to create separate button holes.
For adding the shoulders straps, you can choose to do this in many different ways, going for a halter or spaghetti or adding thicker straps like mine.
1) Chain 7 or 8
2) Start with 3 chain which counts as 1 DC and stitch DCs in the stitches of previous row.
3) Do 20 more rows of DCs to form the strap.
4) Attach to the top of the bodice.
WAIST BAND
The next part is to create the waist band. This part cinches the top near the waist. We need to ensure this part ends up having stitches in multiples of 20, which is required for the lacy bottom of the top. To ensure that we can get multiples of 20, count the number of rows of HDCs you have made for the bust. We will be putting 1 SC per row of the bust + 4 more for the bottom of the front flap. Then increase it to the next multiple of 20. I started with 118 and went up to 160 SCs. I could have done 140 to get 7 sets of patterns, but it would have been too tight and not flowy enough. Also I like to keep things even ;)
1) Attach the thread to the bottom of the bodice. Start with chain 1 and 1 SC into the bottom of each HDC row. For the front button panel of 2 DC rows, stitch 2 SC into each of the 2 DC rows. You should have around 118 SCs.
2) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches. You should have approx 130 SCs.
3) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches. You should have approx 142 SCs.
4) SCs in each stitch, and increase 1 stitch after every 8 stitches. You should have approx 160 SCs.
Remember to increase or decrease stitches to ensure the count is in multiples of 20. You can choose not to increase or decrease if you already have multiple of 20, and the size fits your waist.
Lacy bottom
This part is done in rounds. For the lace pattern, you need the stitches to be in multiples of 20. I have made 8 pattern repeats, so I have started with 8x20, i.e. 160 stitches.
I have used a different yarn for this part. It's Mandala yarn (in unicorn), which is a bit thinner than the one used for the bust part. Using a thinner yarn gives this part a more flowy look and feel.
Round 1:
1) Start with chain1 and SC into the first stitch. 5 chain, skip 3 stitches and SC into the 4th stitch. Continue around with 5 chain and skip 3, SC. Join to the starting stitch. You should have 40, 5 chain loops. If you have started with a different multiple of 20 use that to count the number of starting loops. For example if you start with 200 SCs (20 x 10) you should have 50 loops.
Round 2:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center. Start with 1 chain and 1 SC at the top of the loop. Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 7 DCs into the next loop and join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop. - 3 times to form 3, 5 chain loops.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
Round 3:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center. Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop. Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 1DC into the DC of previous round + chain 1. Repeat for the next 6 DCs. Join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop. - 2 times to form 2, 5 chain loops.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
Round 4:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center. Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop. Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 1DC into the DC of previous round + chain 2. Repeat for the next 6 DCs. Join with 1SC into the loop after that.
3) 5 chain SC into next loop.
4) Repeat step 2 and step 3 around. Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
Round 5:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center. Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop. Mark this SC if required.
2) Stitch 5 DCs into each of the 6 chain 2 spaces of the previous round. Join with SC at the top of the next loop.
3) Continue around and join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
Round 6:
1) Start with chain 1 and SC into the first stitch. 5 chain, skip next 5 DC cluster. SC on top of the second 5 DC cluster.
2) 5 chain and SC on top of 3rd, 4th and 5th, 5 DC clusters
3) 5 chain SC into the next SC which was used to join the DC cluster row with the loop.
4) 5 chain, skip next 5 DC cluster. SC on top of the second 5 DC cluster.
5) 5 chain and SC on top of 3rd, 4th and 5th, 5 DC clusters
6) 5 chain SC into the next SC which was used to join the DC cluster row with the loop.
7) Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 around and join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
Round7:
1) 3 ST into the last loop of previous round to reach the center. Start with 1chain and 1SC at the top of the loop. Mark this SC if required.
2) 5 chain and SC into each of the loops of the previous round.
3) Join to the first (marked) SC stitch created.
At this point, one whole block of the pattern is done. Going forward you need to repeat Rounds 2 to Round 7. You can do as many repeats of the rounds as you want. I have done a total of 4 repeats.
Bottom border: A bottom border helps to add a bit of weight and keep the edge from turning. You can choose to either end with Round 5. It has the 5DC clusters, which will help give the bottom a good definition and keep it from turning up. I have just added a border by doing 5 DCs in each of the loops of the last round. Then added a row of SCs.
NOTE: In case you are having trouble with the pattern, please let me know and I will work with you to resolve it as best as possible.
I would love to hear and see if you create this beautiful project. Please feel free to write to me or post to my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/myartvent/
DISCLAIMER: Please do not copy any part of this pattern. Please give credit to this blog if you use any of the patterns.
Feel free to follow me on Facebook | Instagram | Ravelry
What chest size did you end up with?
ReplyDeleteVery pretty pattern!
Thank you Ginette! The chest measure is around 38 inches.
Delete